Practical Tips for Afghanistan

“Sow a thought, reap an act; sow an act, reap a habit; sow a habit, reap a character; sow a character… reap a destiny” – Anonymous  

This is not a travelogue update – it is more for people who are considering a journey to Afghanistan… 2 months ago, as I was preparing to go to Afghanistan I was asking a lot of questions about travelling there – I will try and answer those questions here.

If you are less interested in the practicalities, and would prefer to read a more flowery description of what happened along the way, please click on the Afghanistan Link on the right hand side of this webpage or scroll down.

PRACTICALITIES AND ADVICE FOR AFGHANISTAN (MY OWN EXPERIENCES AND OPINIONS)
 
My route was Peshawar – Kabul – Mazar – Termiz (Uzbekistan) I caught the bus/taxi from Peshawar to Kabul as I thought it sounded a bit too volatile along there and I was too frightened. I then cycled north from Kabul
- Charikar (50km/ first night – easy day) (very horrible GREEN Hotel) – they tried to charge me 30 USD for the night, but I eventually wangled it for free… from quality of room it is worth 5 USD a night in my opinion, but there are guards with guns, so at least you feel safe!)
- Pul-i-Komri (170 km/2nd night) (this was a huge day – had to climb up to 3,300 m / Salang pass in a head wind – then I hitched a lift through the Salang tunnel (5 km of rather dangerous tunnel), then down other side of Hindu Cush for 100km – during which I had a spectacular wipe out on the gravel (stayed with NGO friends)
- Tashkurgan (140km/3rd night) – good roads, mixed head and tail winds (stayed with NGO friends)
- Termez (100km / 4th night / feel safe again!) People were mostly very friendly, though I did meet a few who didnt seemed pleased to see an Englishman, though I was always honest about where I was fromI did a lot of research and networking before I went to Afghanistan and the consensus (among NGOs, army folk, embassy people, etc) seemed to be that the
- Kabul-Mazar was basically fine (but do not camp),
- Peshawar-Kabul might be risky, (bus was fine though)
- Kandahar obviously no-way; (I did meet a crazy Russian motorcycling journalist in Uzbekistan who very nearly got himself Talibaned at a petrol station near Kandahar – he had to jump on his bike and roar away to escape!)
- Kabul – Herat – not sure – some people said ok, others not – I didnt like the sound of it (read Rory Stewarts book about this in 2002)
- Mazar-Herat – rather risky – but Romulo did it and was ok (see below)
- Kabul – Tajikistan – probably ok (but do not camp) (Jen did it see below – Daniel from HALO is about to do it). Basically, camping not a good idea in my opinion, and I always made sure I had a place to sleep each night where I felt very safe (usually with friendly NGOs I had contacted by email before)There are quite a few other cyclists who have been this way
- a Czech guy I met in Delhi (whose email I lost I’m afraid -  I think he was called JEN) – he rode from Tajik-Kabul – Peshawar – and was fine, except he got ill- Italian – rode Herat – Mazar – Kabul – Peshawar – said it was scarey, but he was fine – (until he got beaten up in India)! Even he (doing this crazy route) hitched a lift through the Salang tunnel!
email – “romulo pizzica” <nomadbybike@gmail.com>Visa and other info
- Got afghan visa and NWFP permit in Peshawar in one day(about 30 USD I think)
- Taxi to border – 700 Rupees – then mini bus (with bike on roof) to Kabul – 800 Afghanis – the bus dumped me 20 km from city – and I hitched a lift into town with some afghan kids – but could have cycled I think
- In Kabul – beware paranoid soldiers who point their guns at you when you ask directions!! (see travelog for details)
- I picked up Uzbek visa in islamabad (70 USD), having organised LOI through STANTOURS (35 USD)
- I picked up Turkmen visa (73 USD) in Kabul in one hour (!!!) having organised permission letter in Delhi (free)
- Despite what a few people told me in Kabul/via email, the Uzbek border over Oxus River was friendly and easy – but apparently it is worth being very honest about declaring the amount of cash you are carrying accurately, or they may confiscate it!I think it is not possible to definitively say it is or isnt safe – but Kabul to Termiz is probably the safest option… I grew a mini beard and wore a shalwar kameez, but still stuck out like a sore thumb – someone advised me – dont try to blend in too much, but try not to stick out too much… good advice.